Methods to Size a Ring

In the correct situation stretching a ring can be the most cost effective and the best option. However this method is limited to a narrow set of applications and must meet a strict set of criteria to be a candidate for this resizing method. The typical ring that meets these requirements is a heavy gent's wedding band.

The ring must be:

• a band of even width and thickness around the full circumference,
• seamless. (No prior 'cut and size' adjustments, or 'rolled shank' fabrication)
• without gems or inlays of any kind,
• no 'pierced through' patterns,
• evenly worn (older rings should not have visibly thin, wear sections)
• requiring a minimal resize adjustment,
• solid (no hollow construction),
• substantial in thickness,
• (particularly for compression) free of high relief, 'carved' details. These details may show excessive detail loss or distortion.

Advantages

1. Avoids creation of a sizing seam, that is likely to crack as the ring ages and wears.
2. No interruption of pattern details that cut and sizing would create.
3. Cost effective. Rings that are thick and hefty are more expensive than rings that are narrow to cut and size. Compression or stretching involves minimal labor, and no additional material.

Misconceptions about Stretching or Compression

The ring will become much thinner.

This is only true when the ring has been stretched too far. This resizing method should be only be used for size adjustments up to 1 size on very heavy rings, and 3/4 sizes with regular weight rings. This level of adjustment shows minimal 'stretch' - you wouldn't be able to tell a stretched ring from an unstretched one.

A little known fact is that many manufacturer's of wedding bands routinely use stretching in the factory to achieve final size on many rings. A ring ordered in a quarter or eighth of a ring size has typically undergone factory adjustment to achieve the fine tuning of ring size.

Stretching damages a ring.

It is true that when a ring is sized, it is forever altered from it's original state. That is the reason a ring once adjusted for size, or special ordered in a specific size is typically non-returnable. In essence the ring is no longer 'new'. The reality is that unless you can have the ring remade from scratch with new metal and in the correct size, there is no way that a ring can be adjusted without some type of sizing process as outlined.

All sizing work alters the ring from it's original state.

• Adding a bridge of metal to a ring puts two seams into the structure of the ring.
• Stretching that hardens the metal and thins it out.
• Shaving the inside of a ring making it thinner.
• Pounding a ring on a mandrel to stretch it, thins the ring, and makes it harder and more brittle.

However, these alterations do not always EQUAL damage. Damage only occurs when a ring is sized so that it will prematurely break when being worn or the design is effected detrimentally. Stretching or compressing a ring does not always damage a ring. It is over stretching where the ring is excessively thinned out, or design is distorted that is damaging to a ring.

We only stretch or compress rings where the result will be acceptable.

Stretching adjustment may result in the following:

Pattern Distortion

A ring with carved detail may appear slightly different after a stretching is performed. This is most pronounced on angular patterns. This change will be negligible for size increments below a half a ring size.

Metal Thinning

With small size alterations the metal of a ring stretches quite uniformly. As more stretching is performed, certain parts of the ring begin to stretch more easily than others. This results in some parts of the ring becoming thinner as they stretch, while the more resistant parts stay thick. This over stretching is a practice that will result in a shorter lifespan for the ring.

Tool Damage

Tool damage occurs from poor technique, and poor tools. Needless to say, at Buchkosky Jewelers we have skilled tradesmen, and use stretching tools that are uncommon in the industry*. The stretching tools we utilize avoid many pitfalls that come with inferior equipment.

Work Hardening

Work hardening simply stated, is a change in the metal structure at a microscopic level, that results in the metal becoming harder and consequently more brittle (brittleness = cracking issues sooner than expected). Work hardening can be removed through a heating/cooling process called annealing.

* Unlike most jeweler's that offer this service, at Buchkosky Jeweler's we have a specialized tool that can both stretch a ring, as well as compress a ring down in size.

This resizing method is reserved for typically 'last resort' adjustments. The method enlarges the internal circumference of the ring by the removing metal from the inside of the ring using abrasives. Obviously this results in thinning of the ring, and so is not recommended for large finger size adjustments.

 

This type of adjustment is only used when other methods are not possible, or would be hazardous to sensitive parts of the ring. An example of a ring that would be a candidate for this type of resizing would be a quarter size adjustment upwards of an eternity style ring, where the customer chooses lighter shank weight over the introduction of a 'sizing bar' that would interrupt the eternity ring style of the ring.